Well sometime in the night a visitor came calling. You could see his/her foot prints all around the table, on the benches, and, you guessed it, on the tablecloth covering what was supposed to be our breakfast table. Right in the middle of the covering tablecloth was a hole about the size of a softball. Under that hole was an empty box where my cereal had once been. My mom and dad found it funny the next morning; but, I was heartbroken. This was when they first started making the cereal and not everyone stocked it. This was really going to be a special treat for me. Now it was in some bears belly.

I always loved the bears in the park and we would stay up late at night waiting to see one in the camp. This bear though was not nice, how could it have eaten some little boy’s favorite breakfast? And it got the surprise too! My mom consoled me and promised she would find me some more for the next morning, if not sooner. And, as always, she did, two boxes in fact. She also put that table cloth away knowing someday it would bring smiles instead of tears. It did! Oh, by the way, I ate the cereal for dinner that night and slept with the boxes to keep them safe.

Hope you enjoyed this little tidbit, Ill post more soon.

The tweet gave me insight to some of what I was thinking and feeling. I thought how wonderful it was that I live in the Smokies; however, the more I thought, I realized that I fit into all three categories. You probably ask if you live in the Smokies how can that be? Well read on and I will tell you, contemplate what you read and maybe you will learn something that will change the way you look at your own life.

As a younger person, most would say child, my family and I would migrate to the Smoky Mountains and the Great Smoky Mountain National Park (GSMNP) at least once a year on vacation. I could not wait for these trips. I think there were times they were more anticipated than birthdays and holidays. I wanted to see the mountains. I wanted to make roads in the gravel of our campsite for my toy cars and such. I wanted a campfire to watch and roast marshmallows or toast doughnuts in. I wanted to see a bear. I wanted to go into the towns and see what neat new things were in the shops. I wanted to go to some of the attractions and do things like ride the steam trains. Most of all I wanted to play in the river, “my river”, and see the Indians, especially Dennis Wolfe.

As a young boy I visited this wonderful land and I longed for the Mountains . Now as a “man” I live here, yet I still long for the Mountains. I long to get into the GSMNP and get away from the stresses of everyday life. When I do this I refresh. I feel closer to my creator and my ancestors. And I learn from the mountains. The biggest thing I have learned living here is that I have seen so very, very little of The Smoky Mountains.

See as a child I had all the views of the Smokies as a child. I did not see how much the steam trains I loved to ride had played such an important part in the United States’ history and, more to the point, the history of The Great Smoky Mountains. “My river” was not a single river, as I viewed it, but rather they were multiple rivers that were the life blood of the Smokies and its prior inhabitants. I viewed the stereotype of the Indians in Cherokee and did not realize that they were a part of my past and my future and nothing like what I perceived.

As I sit here now, listening to the sounds of a summer night in The Smokies, I feel grateful that I have been given the opportunity to be here. I had  to live here to see how much I had not known, how much I had taken for granted, and how much I can do to let others see the Mountains through my eyes, now and then. I want people of all ages to come away from their visits with the sane feeling of wonder and awe I did as a child, with some of the knowledge I have since gained, and with a desire to learn more.

There are so many people here that love these mountains as much or more than I do. I have crossed paths with people who have helped me see what I felt and why (Like “Night Owl”) and those who want to teach others and preserve this great gift (Like Ranger “Linda”). So as you visit the Smokies, in person or through other means, take the time to learn why and how, not just see. Listen to the people around you and learn from their knowledge and wisdom. And, when you are alone in the quite of a noisy mountain night or beside a babbling brook, listen carefully at what the mountains are saying to you. And give thanks, to the mountains, to the people who made this possible, and the people who work so hard every day to keep it a place for the world to enjoy.

“Live your life that the fear of death may never enter your heart. Trouble no one about their religion; respect others in their view, and demand that they respect yours. Love your life, perfect your life, and beautify all things in your life. Seek to make your life long, and its purpose in the service of your people. Prepare a noble death song, for the day when you go over the great divide. Always give a word or a sign of salute when meeting or passing a friend, even a stranger, when in a lonely place. Show respect to all people and grovel to none. When you arise in the morning give thanks for the food and the joy of living. If you see no reason for giving thanks, the fault lies only in yourself. Abuse no one and nothing, for abuse turns the wise ones into fools and robs the spirit of its vision.”

Recently I discussed what was meant by the The Great Smoky Mountains National Park being An International Biosphere. UNESCO also certified The Great Smoky Mountains National Park (GSMNP) as a World Heritage Site on June 12, 1983.

The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) seeks to encourage the identification, protection and preservation of cultural and natural heritage around the world considered to be of outstanding value to humanity. Heritage is our legacy from the past, what we live with today, and what we pass on to future generations. Our cultural and natural heritage are both irreplaceable sources of life and inspiration.

There are a total of 890 World Heritage properties across the globe; 689 are considered cultural, 176 are considered natural, and 25 are designated as mixed. The GSMNP’s designation is as a natural site by meeting the following criteria:

• to contain superlative natural phenomena or areas of exceptional natural beauty and aesthetic importance;
• to be outstanding examples representing major stages of earth’s history, including the record of life, significant on-going geological processes in the development of landforms, or significant geomorphic or physiographic features;
• to be outstanding examples representing significant on-going ecological and biological processes in the evolution and development of terrestrial, fresh water, coastal and marine ecosystems and communities of plants and animals;
• to contain the most important and significant natural habitats for in-situ conservation of biological diversity, including those containing threatened species of outstanding universal value from the point of view of science or conservation.

The protection, management, authenticity and integrity of properties are also important considerations.

The UNESCO site says: “this exceptionally beautiful park is home to more than 3,500 plant species, including almost as many trees (130 natural species) as in all of Europe. Many endangered animal species are also found there, including what is probably the greatest variety of salamanders in the world. Since the park is relatively untouched, it gives an idea of temperate flora before the influence of humankind.”

One of the great advantages of this designation, in my eyes, is that the UNESCO keeps track of these properties to insure they are maintained; however, the Park services and other organizations due a great job on their own. The following link takes you to the UNESCO documentation on the GSMNP including the original Advisory Body Evaluation and decision of the 7th Session of the Committee (way to much to publish here) – UNESCO Documents

A lot of what is contained in these documents, and information found in my research, have lent ideas for new posts soon. I have already begun one on the “salamanders” for my two youngest son’s. These will come right after the upcoming 3 post series on the Black Bears.

Three of the most famous comercial (you can take guided tours in them) caves near the Smokies are Forbidden Caverns in Sevierville, Tuckaleechee Caverns in Townsend, and The Lost Sea in Sweetwater. But there are several caves inside the park its self.

The GSMNP has 17 caves within it;s boundaries. Some of the caves inside the park are Scott Gap Cave, Blowhole Cave, Gregory’s Cave, and Bull Cave. None of these caves are open to the public.

“ Be fore warned that entering the caves within the park is unlawful and you will be prosecuted.“

My reason for discussing the caves within GSMNP is to expand on the diversity of the park. Caves provide an environment sought out by several critters that live in the park.

While the USGS was surveying caves in the GSMNP they noted seeing:

• The Long-tailed Salamander
• The Northern Slimy Salamander
• The Blue Ridge Two-lined Salamander
• The American Toad
• The Fowler’s Toad
• The Wood Frog
• The Pickerel Frog
• The Northern Green Frog

And of course other animals use the caves as homes, as sleeping quarters , and during hibernation. Bats also use the caves, but not exclusively, they hang around in trees as well.

Eleven species of bats have been recorded in the GSMNP:

1. Rafinesque’s Big-eared Bat
2. Big Brown Bat
3. Silver-haired Bat
4. Eastern Red Bat
5. Hoary Bat
6. Eastern Small-footed Bat
7. Little Brown Bat
8. Northern Long-eared Bat
9. Indiana Bat
10. Evening Bat
11. Eastern Pipistrelle

All the bats of the GSMNP feed exclusively on insects (best mosquito control in nature). During the colder months bats either hibernate (some in the caves) or migrate to warmer areas. The Red Bat, the Hoary Bat, and the Silver-Haired Bat are known to be migratory thus leaving the rest to hibernate; however, bats have been seen flying in the park during the entire year.

Earlier in the psot I noted that all caves in the GSMNP are closed to the public. This is done to protect the bats.

See – Great Smoky Mountains National Park Closes All Park Caves to Protect Bats

Simple answer: A lot for humanity and nature.

International Biosphere is a recognition given by the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) to areas, world wide, that have applied for and been granted the status. To be granted the status each area must meet three basic functions:

1. Conservation of important biological resources.
2. Development of environmentally sound economic growth.
3. Support for research, monitoring, education, and information exchange related to conservation issues.

The areas that are granted status are broken into three interconnected zones:

1. The core – legally protected from activity which would adversely affect its natural features.
2. The buffer – An adjacent managed use area.
3. The transition – The larger region in which local residents, cultural groups, economic interests, scientists and / or managing agencies work together to link conservation and economic development.

In the case of the GSMNP, the park is the core area. While such activities as motor vehicle traffic, camping, picnicking, hiking and fishing are allowed they are closely regulated to prevent damage to the natural environment.

There are several buffer areas around the GSMNP some private, some government, and others controlled by non-profit / citizen’s groups.

And finally the cities, towns, and communities around the GSMNP make up the larger transition area. While I am not sure (at this posting) how far out this area goes, I do know that information from100′s of miles away are used in considering effects on the GSMNP.

What is done here, in our park, is shared with others around the world to help them in balancing the needs of mankind while preserving the natural environment. Information from other sites is used here in the GSMNP to help preserve that same balance.

Now you know.

Before the park was established in 1934 there were many more species of animals, fish, and birds roaming the Southern Appalachians and the GSMNP that are no longer there. Some of these included the Mountain Lion, Elk, Gray and Red Wolves, River Otters, Fishers, Bison, Peregrine Falcon, and many species of fish. These wonders of nature all disappeared due  to several causes like hunting, fishing, trapping, changes in how land was used and other causes.

The National Park System’s primary role is to protect and preserve the natural and historic places of the United States. They also, where possible, strive to return the lands to their state before the intrusion of modern man.

Here in the GSMNP this has already been done in several ways. Allowing many more modern structures and clearings to be returned to the lands natural state, while preserving enough of the history to make it a learning experience as well. But some of the most beautiful “reclamation” has been the reintroduction of several creatures to their habitat here.

Most people do not even know that the National Park Service has already helped to reintroduce the the River Otter, three fish species, and the Peregrine Falcon back into the GSMNP.

There was an attempt in 1990′s to reintroduce the Red Wolf which was dropped due to the inability for newborn pups to survive. There may be other species that reintroduction may not be attempted due to concerns for the other natural resources or visitors. The latest reintroduction does seem to be a success.

Elk are back. The first release of Elk back into the GSMNP occurred in February of 2001 in the Cataloochee Vally on the North Carolina side of the park. With the help of GSMNP scientists, and other experts, land and other conditions where maintained in the best possible conditions to make the reintroduction a success. And succeed it did. The herd now numbers more than 100 a four fold increase from the original 25.

Here is a litlle legal tidbit if you decide to go to see the Elk:

Willfully approaching within 50 yards (150 feet), or any distance that disturbs or displaces elk, is illegal in the park. Violation of this federal regulation can result in fines and arrest. Do not enter fields to view elk—remain by the roadside and use binoculars, telephoto lens, or a spotting scope to view the animals. 

Sometimes I have to go into the mountains to refresh my souls inner peace, sometimes I go to remember happy times and sad ones, but, I always go to make new memories and build upon the feelings I have gained through countless trips to this wondrous place.

On a recent trip to the Middle Prong Little River I stood and watched my children play in the water. I saw the two youngest ones work so hard at building their little dam and I watched my older son skip a smooth flat stone from one rapid to the next. These are visions that will be played over time and again in my heart.

I am sure my family saw the smile on my face; however, they had no way of realizing that the smile was not only because of that moment, but for moments remembered from many, many years ago. Remembering myself, as a young boy, building a dam in the river, my self as a young boy being taught, by my father, how to skip stones.

By the same note my family has seen the tears, witnessed the anguish upon my face, as I pass by a restroom in Elkmont campground, as I remember the day my mother, who was suffering from cancer, told me “I want you to come here (meaning Elkmont her favorite campground) often and remember me, and don’t be sad, but I will never make it here again”, she died less than 90 days latter. I do go as often as I can, and I do remember and I cry, then I remember the great times I have had there, with her and my dad, and a peace settles in, for I can feel them there, around me, in happy times.

I have opened this part of my heart to you for this reason, take the time to enjoy your life no matter where you are, but especially here in The Great Smoky Mountains. Build those memories that you and your family will cherish for a lifetime. Even though there have been several changes in the landscape of the park its self, I can, and you will be able to find those special places and say “remember when….” or “here is where….” something to cherish.

The GSMNP is part of the Appalachians Mountain Chain (system) that runs from Canada (some say from Newfoundland) south along the eastern United States to northeast Mississippi. The GSMNP runs along the Tennessee and North Carolina border.

Well this is just a start, I will do more in the next few hours.